Because the Inca Trail has been such an interesting event we decided to put the itinerary on our blog, so everyone can see what we´ve done:
The first day of the Trail is relatively easy and just serves for training for the days to follow. We got picked up from our hostel in Cusco very early (06:00!) and travelled through the villages of Chincero, Urubamba and Ollantaytambo, where we had the possibility to have breakfast. Having arrived at km82 we crossed the Vilcanota River we followed the trail as it climbed steeply up from the river. After passing through a small village, the ruins of the Inca hillfort of Huillca Raccay came into view high above the mouth of the river Cusichaca. From this point on it started to rain for the rest of the day. The Inca´s, when conquered the area, built a fort here since the site commanded an excellent view up and down the Urubamba valley and controlled the entrance to the Cusichanca valley. After this point it was a sinmple descent down to Cusichaca River where we had our lunch. After lunch we had a greta view over the extensive Inca ruins Llactapata (also known as Patallacta). Llactapata means ´uppr town´ in Quechua and was first discovered by Hiram Bingham in 1911 and was primarily an agricultural station used to supply Machu Picchu with maize, the staple crop of the Inca´s. The settlement comprised over 100 buildings, houses for workers and soldiers and even 5 baths. For a further 7 km the path follows the left bank of the river up to the small village of Wayllabamba (3000 m). The name in Quchua means ´grassy plain´. We camped here close to the ruins and arrived in a heavy rain. The porters had run ahead to make prepare the camp and at dinner we were positively surprised by the meal the cook had prepared.
Day 2: Wayllabamba to Pacamayo (12km hike)
This was said to be the hardest day of the Trail. Climbing up from Wayllabamba following the left bank of the Llulluchayoc River for about an hour the path brought us to ´Tres Piedres´ (Three Stones) and a small bridge over the Huayruro River. The stream is named after the Huayruro, which is an ornamental tree. Its seeds are red and black. A little bit further we entered a beautiful cloud forest passing a waterfall. A further 3 hours track trhough steepening woods and increasingly spectacular terrain brought us to the treeline and a meadow known as Llulluchapampa (3680 m). Here we had our lunch. After this we had another 1,5 hours climb to the first and highest pass of the trail (Abra de Huarmihuañusca od ´Dead Woman´s pass) at 4200 m. During this part of the trail it got really steep and we had to stop every 5 to 10 mintues to get some air into our lungs. The altitude was playing its role... When we got to the top a freezing wind welcomed us to a very rewarding view over the most difficult section of the track. The decent from the pass down was steep although not difficult, following the trail to the valley and our 2nd night´s campsite at Pacamayo (3600 m)
Day 3: Pacamayo to Wiñay Wayna (15 km hike)
From Pacamayo it took about an hour to climb up to the ruins of Runkuracay. These small circular ruins occupy a commanding position overlooking the Pacamayo Valley below. Another 45 minute hike brought us to the top of the second pass: Abra de Runkuracay (4000 m). At last we felt we were walking along the trail of the Inca´s with paving, for the most part, being original. The descent again was very steep. The section of the trail, up till the 3rd pass, was particularly beautiful as the path crossed high stone embankments. After about 1 hour from the 2nd pass we arrived at Sayacmarca by way of a superbly designed stone staircase. The name Sayacmarca means ´Inaccesible Town´ and describes the position of the ruins perfectly. protected on three sides by sheer cliffs. The trail also passes Conchamarca, a small Inca dwelling situated in the shadows of Sayacmarca, which was possibly a tambo (resting place) for weary travelers on their way to Machu Picchu. From then on the path descended into a magnificent cloud forest full of orchids, hanging mosses, tree ferns and flowers, passing through an impressive Inca tunnel, carved into rock. The trail then climbed up to the 3rd pass (3700 m). The view from this pass normally offers excellent views of several snow-capped peaks including Salkantay (6180 m) and Veronica (5750 m). But since the afternoon has started very cloudy and foggy we didn´t have the opportunity to see it... A few minutes after the pass we arrived at Phuyupatamarca, the most impressive Inca ruin so far. It means ´Town in the Clouds´ and for this day that was certainly true! Acces to the ruins is down a very steep flight of stairs passing six Inca baths probably used for the ritual worship of water. Leaving the site via an impressive Inca staircase from the west side of the ruins we descended a thousand or so steps. After about an hour walking of through a cloud forest we could see our next campsite: Wiñay Wayna, but it would take us another 2 hours to get there. Wiñay Wayna is the last official campsite before Machu Picchu. It had a restaurant (beer!) and even hot showers and toilets. A short trail leaves from the southern part of the site to the ruins of Wiñay Wayna. In Quechua it means ´Forever Young´ and is named after a variety of pink orchids which grows here. The ruins comprise magnificent agricultural terraces set in an amazing location.
Day 4: Wiñay Wayna to Machu Picchu (5km) and return to Cusco
In the early morning (05:30!) we headed to the final control post before Machu Picchu. We wanted to reach the sungate early to enjoy the excellent view over Machu Picchu as the sun rises over the ruins. The trail contoured a mountain side and drops into cloud forests before coming to an almost vertical flight of ´only´ 50 steps leading to the final pass at Intipunku (Sun Gate). Suddenly the whole of Machu Picchu was spread out before us... After enjoying sunrise over the ruins we walked down to Machu Picchu itself: the Watchman´s hut from where we had the same view as on the famous picture of the postcard. We went into the city and had a tour for about 2 hours before having some time on ourselves in the ruins. The day before arriving at Machu Picchu I asked the guide for a ticket to Huayna Picchu but after seeing how steep it was and hearing about their insurance policy I decided not to go there. After our stay at the site we went down to Agua Calientes by bus where we had a group lunch at a restaurant. After lunch the guide took us to the train station from where we would go to km82 again by train to catch a bus to Cusco.
It has been an unforgettable experience...
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